Good day to all. Today we will do the repairs. On the agenda is the repair of a chandelier with a remote control.

Not long ago, a friend asked me to look at a chandelier. The fact is that it stopped responding to the control panel and could only occasionally be turned on using a regular switch. Without delaying it, I decided to get to the bottom of this problem. By the way, the chandelier is not that old, it is only 2 years old. And what’s most amazing is that the nameplate that was stuck on the case stated “service life 2 years”:

Before we begin the repair, let's figure out what main components the chandelier consists of.

The device of a chandelier with a control panel

Chandeliers of this class can have several varieties: they can be with halogen lamps or incandescent lamps, or combined. In my case, the chandelier is a combination one, consisting of halogen lamps and LED lighting:

This is how a friend brought me a lighting device. As you know, chandeliers can look very different in appearance, but their insides are almost the same. Let's see what this instance consists of:

• Three 12 volt units for powering halogen lamps
• One LED light power supply
• Well, the radio control unit itself

I will not describe each block in detail in this article; I will only focus on the radio control controller block.

Radio control unit with remote control for chandelier

To control the Chinese chandelier, the Wireless switch Y-B7 radio control unit is used. This is a complete analogue of the widely used Wireless Switch Y-7E chandelier controller. This is a three channel controller with maximum power each channel 1000 W. The connection diagram for the radio control unit is located on the cover:

A remote control with four large buttons is used for control. The remote control itself is powered by a small 12 volt battery:

So, let's get down to business, open the cover of the radio control unit and see what's wrong with us.

DIY chandelier repair with remote control

In the case under the cover there is a board on which there are three powerful 10 Amp electromagnetic relays:

Each is controlled using bipolar transistor S9014 (see Wireless Switch Y-7E diagram below):

The radio receiver unit is located on a separate board. There is an interlinear guide on the board, with which you can more accurately configure the receiving path to the control panel:

And having unsoldered the radio receiver board, I discovered the HS108P-J decoder itself, on which the entire radio receiving unit is built:

To pinpoint the problem, let's look at schematic diagram wireless switch y 7e 1000w 3.

Wireless Switch Y-7E 1000Wx3 radio control unit diagram

There are not such a large number of radio components located on the controller board, so I decided to draw a diagram:

The circuit itself consists of 3 main components: a power supply, a radio channel module and a switching module. The power supply must output two voltages: 5 volts and 14 volts. A voltage of 5 volts is provided by a voltage stabilizer 7805. The 14 volt power supply is built on a parametric source consisting of four zener diodes connected in parallel through a quenching resistor. The entire module is powered through a quenching capacitor C7 with a capacity of 1.3 microfarads, which is the weakest link in this device. This Chinese film capacitor is not designed for long-term use:

To find a fault in the radio control unit, you need to use a multimeter. Immediately measure the voltage after the diode bridge, which should be within 14 volts. Since three electromagnetic relays are powered immediately from the diode bridge, which are in the off state, the voltage at this point can be within normal limits. But as soon as you press any button on the remote control, the load will increase and the voltage will immediately drop below 10 volts. Due to the low voltage, the radio module and the decoder cannot function normally. The culprit was capacitor C7, whose capacity should be 1.3 microfarads.

Attention! Be careful. This block radio control does not have galvanic isolation from the network. Secondary circuits have high potential.

To make sure of this, I unsoldered capacitor C7 and measured its parameters using a digital one. Here are the measurement results. As you can see, this capacitor has lost its capacity. And it is a little more than 0.3 microfarad:

This capacity is clearly not enough for the normal functioning of the Wireless Switch Y-7E radio control unit.

In order not to tempt fate with Chinese radio components, I decided to replace the faulty capacitor with a Soviet used one. I picked one more or less similar in capacity and size:

As you can see, the capacity of the new capacitor is slightly less than what it should be, but this did not affect the performance of the chandelier in any way, it worked clearly and the voltage after the diode bridge did not drop below 10-12 volts.

All that remains is to solder the new capacitor into its rightful place. Despite the fact that its dimensions are slightly larger than its original size, it fits well:

Summing up, we can state the fact that the chandelier worked as before. You can verify this by pressing the “D” button, and all 3 channels will turn on, which will correspond to the maximum load on the power supply. If the voltage after the diode bridge does not drop below 10-12 volts, then our repair was a success. All that remains is to place the radio control unit board in the case and connect it according to the diagram located on the cover.

I hope that the Wireless Switch Y-7E 1000Wx3 circuit will help many people in repairing a chandelier with their own hands. If you are unable to repair it, do not despair; you can buy a ready-made set of radio control unit with a remote control for the chandelier. It will be much cheaper than buying a new chandelier entirely. I will conclude here. Bye everyone.

Methods of controlling lamps without the use of stationary switches are increasingly gaining popularity among the population. This is explained by the ease of use and the wide availability of kits that make it quite easy to switch already working chandeliers to remote switching off or on.

Manufacturers have now massively mastered the production of original lamps with LED lamps and garlands, which create beautiful lighting effects while saving energy.

You can use them without getting up from your chair or sofa using a small remote control.

The principle of remote control of lamps

The basis for remote control is the transition from those located on the walls of rooms and connected by wires to the chandelier and the apartment panel, to the use of radio control channels. For this purpose:

radio transmitter built into a small-sized and convenient remote control;

a radio receiver that receives commands from the user and transmits them to the executive unit;

electrical power systems for the remote control and receiver.

Structurally, the radio receiver is placed on one electronic board with power supplies, logic and actuators on relay switches and are called in one word - “controller”. It is powered from the apartment electrical wiring, placed near the chandelier and connected to it with connecting wires.

The radio signal from the remote control, received by the antenna and amplified by the radio receiver, is processed by logic and sent to a switching unit that connects certain lamps.

Technical capabilities of remote control

All of the above elements may have a different set of functions and, accordingly, differ in design complexity and cost. Let's look at their characteristics using the example of a common budget version of the kit shown in the photo.

The remote and controller are designed for collaboration together. They are tuned to one common frequency and, in addition, use a radio signal encryption algorithm specially created for them. This is done in order to exclude the control of the chandelier from the owners of other apartments using similar equipment.

But, it is worth understanding that if one of these elements breaks down and needs to be replaced with another, you will have to buy a new remote control together with the controller.

The kit in question works with three autonomous lighting channels, each of which can have a load of up to 1 kilowatt, which is more than enough for home use even when using powerful incandescent lamps. However, when operating fluorescent or energy saving lamps It should be taken into account that their starting currents are up to four times higher than the rated values.

To control the lighting channels, there are 3 buttons on the remote control: A, B, C, and the fourth D is designed to turn on the lamps or completely remove the voltage from them.

Removing this remote control from the controller at a distance of eight meters is quite enough for our apartments, although there are models of radio transmitters on sale that can control at distances of a hundred meters.

The remote control is electrically powered from a galvanic battery, which is included in the kit, and the controller is powered from the network via a unit built into the board.

The kit in question has one feature: the voltage of the phase and working zero of the apartment wiring must be connected to the controller input. If you turn it off and then turn it on from the switch with the remote control de-energized, the chandelier begins to glow, bypassing the radio channel.

This allows you to control the light of the chandelier without remote control of conventional wall switches, but at the same time creates inconvenience associated with possible unauthorized lighting at night or during the day.

A similar case can occur when the lamps are turned off by the radio remote control, and due to the occurrence of even short-term malfunctions in the power supply organization, consumers are disconnected and then turned on. The controller perceives the supply of such voltage as a command to start the lighting.

Designs of lighting installations for remote control

Control kits with remote control allow you to control the operation of any lighting fixtures. To do this, it is enough to select them in accordance with the technical characteristics:

operating and starting current;

mains voltage;

Equip remote control you can use any old chandelier with incandescent lamps: just install it in electrical diagram controller and use the remote control.

Usually, for this purpose they try to build in a controller board:

inside the protective steel cover of the chandelier, covering the wires of the lamp;

into the ceiling hole near the mounting hook;

in place of the switch.

The latter case is rarely used: it requires laying additional wires from the switch location to the illuminators.

Modern LED chandeliers can use combinations of different light sources:

• additional illuminators that create special effects.

However, some sources may require their own power and control circuits. An example is that, when turned on, they begin to work according to pre-prepared algorithms.

Design of LED chandelier with remote control

Let's look at this question using the example of the model shown in the above photograph. It is available with a controller and remote control, allowing you to use the same four modes: A, B, C, D.

Thanks to its design, the chandelier allows you to create various light compositions. This is what one of them looks like.

For mounting on the ceiling, a standard fastening strip is used, which is attached to the load-bearing concrete slab using dowels and self-tapping screws. There are two holes made at the base of the chandelier through which the strip pins are threaded. Decorative nuts are screwed onto their threads, holding the weight of the structure through washers.

The base of a removed chandelier is usually made hollow to accommodate all electrical parts in its space and ensure their installation.

Highlighted in the photo:

power wires and protective PE conductor;

controller with antenna;

LED lamps and garlands;

scheme for creating special effects for additional lamps.

The controller mount is shown in more detail in the next photo. For clarity, the cover has been removed.

The lower box of the controller housing of this chandelier is firmly glued to its base. However, the board itself is not difficult to remove from there.

The following are clearly visible on the board:

three switching channels of channels A, B, C, which have outputs indicated by blue, yellow and white wires;

channel for turning on and off the device;

radio receiver chip with antenna wire.

These same elements can be viewed from the back of the board.

Switching channels allow you to use all lamps simultaneously to create maximum illumination or set half the mode of their use along the internal or external circuit.

At the top of the photo you can clearly see that the red wire of the network phase is soldered to the contact of the track and routed along it according to the controller circuit. The working zero is specially made with two wires for a separate one:

use in a controller circuit;

power supply of lamps, garlands of lamps.

Hidden remote control features

Even a simplified version of the considered chandelier allows you to additionally use certain functions of the devices. You can free up at least one lighting channel and use it for other purposes, for example:

manipulate a separate group of spotlights;

open or close window curtains using an electric drive;

control the operation of the projector or other electrical devices.

More complex models of controllers and consoles can significantly expand the list of operations performed, carrying them out according to certain algorithms, carrying out:

color selection;

turning on certain groups of lamps;

brightness adjustment;

using a timer to control lighting on a schedule.

The remote control buttons discussed in the article are currently undergoing changes. They are beginning to introduce more advanced models with voice control.

Disadvantages of remote controlled chandeliers

Manufacturers of remote controls and controllers indicate their products in the technical specifications maximum temperature operation. For the devices shown in the photographs, it is 85 degrees. This is a very important characteristic that many owners simply do not pay attention to.

Any electrical components work well when the appropriate conditions are created for them. Microcircuits and semiconductor elements do not tolerate overheating and burn out. Many types of low-melting solders flow under increased heat.

Where is the controller located? The answer is simple: at the highest point of the ceiling, which is always the hottest. In addition, the board is placed in an unventilated metal box hidden in the chandelier body. Next, it remains to compare the load power of the lamps, especially with incandescent or halogen lamps, the heat they release, which is spent on heating the overall structure, and draw a conclusion about a possible reduction in the service life declared by the manufacturer.

For this reason, the ability to remove heat from electronic components controller or at least ways to control its temperature, which many owners do not do at all. In this situation, placing the electronics next to the chandelier, but excluding the thermal transfer of energy from the lamps to it, will be the most acceptable solution.

Recently, ceiling lamps with remote control have flooded into the market in a huge stream. And depending on their cost, manufacturers offer additional functions except turning on and off the lights in the room. Additional features include brightness control, optional color change for RGB LEDs, an on/off timer, and a microphone for accompanying music and lighting effects. That is, it is possible for every taste and color, as well as the age of the buyer. In this article we will tell you how to install and connect a chandelier with a remote control.

Installation steps

Installing a lamp on the remote control is no different from the usual installation of a ceiling lamp. Before purchasing, be sure to check the contents of the product, as well as the presence of instructions with step-by-step installation. Also check that the lamp sockets are in good condition by visual inspection. Ask the seller to check the serviceability of the control panel and even assemble the lamp for testing.

Before installing the chandelier with the control panel, we will find in the kit a perforated strip and long bolts with nuts; we will screw it to the ceiling, as shown in the photo below:

Next, you need to carefully inspect the place before drilling and mark points for drilling in the ceiling slab, so as not to damage the wiring. If you have a plasterboard ceiling, then Molly bolts are used to attach the strip. We talked about this in the corresponding article.

If you want to study the nuances in more detail, we recommend that you follow the link provided, where we examined not only the main methods of fastening, but also the technology for installing a lamp on a suspended ceiling!

Connection rules

After installing the strip, de-energize the line by turning off the machine in the panel. Now you can start connecting the wires coming out of the ceiling. First, you need to carefully straighten them and equalize them in size. Don’t overdo it here, strip them off by one and a half centimeters from the end. If the wires are the same color, you need to find the phase. If three conductors come out and you previously had a two-key switch, one of the phases will have to be insulated and the switch replaced with a single-key switch. you can find it in our article. We separate the wires to the sides, turn on the machine and look for the phase. We mark the phase conductors with a marker or felt-tip pen, and then turn off the machine again.

On the upper bowl of the chandelier there is a control unit and a plastic terminal for connecting the wires. The terminal usually fits wires of three colors: blue or black (N), brown or red (L), yellow-green (PE). The supply wires must be connected to the terminals (L) phase and (N) zero. The (PE) terminal is not used in older houses.

As a rule, the controller is already divided into lamps, which are combined into groups. The controllers have a sticker with a connection diagram, and if desired, you can switch the groups in the luminaire as desired. The connection diagram for a chandelier with a control panel is presented below:

It is advisable to install the lamp in the presence of an assistant who will hold it while you make the connection to the terminals. In the absence of such an assistant, you can use a hook made of wire or rope to temporarily hang the chandelier while installing the wires in the terminal block.

The last stage will be the final collection of all elements, installation of the lampshade and lamps. Particular attention should be paid to the contact of the lamp with the base, that is, you need to tighten it with feeling, ensuring good contact. Now you can turn on the machine and supply power to the lighting line, and then try to control the lighting from the remote control.

During the renovation of the children's room, we decided to move away from traditional lighting and use modern lighting fixtures. In place of a regular chandelier, an LED butterfly was hung, and local lighting sources from .
We liked the resulting design of the room: the local lighting performed its tasks well above the student’s workplace. And the children were delighted with the butterfly, which from the remote control and even simple manipulations The switch on the wall created unusual lighting effects.

But after a year and a half, the chandelier stopped working: it was not controlled either by the switch or the remote control. Term warranty repair 12 months has already expired, and the seller from whom they bought this miracle is no longer selling. I had to look for the cause of the problem myself.
To start . It is made according to the classic connection diagram of a chandelier with two groups of lamps.

I had to remove the chandelier from the mounting bracket to access its terminal block. different from older hook-mounted designs.

When checking the state of the circuit, no faults were found in the electrical wiring:

• the working zero comes reliably (checked by connecting a table lamp to the socket phase and the neutral terminal block of the chandelier);
• both phases are clearly switched by the switch keys (we controlled the glow with the indicator light of a screwdriver).

The difference between connecting an LED chandelier and a conventional one is that for its operation it is enough to use just one switch key: all switching of groups of lamps is carried out by the built-in controller. Therefore, we simply have the second supplied phase in reserve.
They began to examine internal organization, switching of wires and equipment. To do this, I had to sit on a stool and place the chandelier on my lap so as not to damage its complex and possibly fragile structure of various glass parts.

The picture shows that all the control and switching elements are located on top of the two-story flat case. Wiring harnesses for four LED lamps pass through special plastic bushings inserted into the housing holes. In the same way, wires are connected to the garlands of LED assemblies.
The controller and control circuit block are firmly glued to the metal surface. The radio signal receiver antenna is made of a simple piece of white wire, which is securely insulated on all sides and simply lies on the surface.
To connect to external power, two wires come out of the controller:

• red - phase is supplied to it;
• black - working zero.

An additional working zero is led further into the circuit using a separate black wire. The yellow-green protective PE conductor is connected on one side to the metal case, and on the other to the prepared terminal block.
Three wires come out of the controller into the chandelier circuit, forming separate control channels. They are made in different colors:

• orange;
• white;
• blue.

The remote control included in the chandelier kit works as a radio transmitter of command signals that are perceived by the controller receiver. The exchange of information takes place in a closed different ways encryption mode so that in a multi-storey building you cannot turn on your neighbor’s lights with your remote control.
Therefore, the remote control and controller are configured at the factory to work together only. They are sold exclusively as a set.
Symbols directly on the remote control buttons show the commands being given.

On the controller cover there is a diagram of its connection to the chandelier circuits and the main load characteristics are presented:

• power up to 1000 W;
• voltage 200÷240 volts;
• network frequency 50 hertz.

We removed the cover from the controller housing and analyzed its structure.

The radio receiver board and chandelier channel switches are clearly visible. The same picture is well tracked from the reverse side.

Particular attention was paid to soldering the outgoing wires. We will need these places for repairs in the future.
The further installation of the chandelier after the controller was simply inspected without disassembly. There were no external manifestations of damage to wires, insulation, or painting. Suspicion fell on the controller.
To safely check it in the working diagram, you had to:

• carefully place the chandelier on cushions made of soft clothing, although you could simply hang it by the mounting holes;
• place the controller board with the back side up on a sheet of cardboard (dielectric);
• using an extension cord from the socket, apply the working zero to the black wire of the controller with an additional conductor with a crocodile;
• connect the second wire with a crocodile to the red phase terminal of the controller and apply a phase to it;
• check the appearance of phase potential on the outgoing wires of the channels using an indicator.

The phase did not arrive, although we tried several times to apply and remove voltage with an extension cord, and when the power was on, we pressed various buttons on the remote control.

There was no particular desire to look further for a fault in the electronic filling of the board.
The option of excluding the controller from operation by installing ordinary switches between the phase and the outgoing channels was not considered, although it is technically easy to implement. After all, this eliminates remote radio control. In addition, one backup wire from the switch to the chandelier is not enough. We'll have to pull another one.
We went to the store and bought a new controller along with the remote control. The price turned out to be quite affordable, not as high as expected. The set of purchased devices in original packaging is shown in the photograph.

All operational specifications new and old devices coincided. They are shown directly on the product packaging.

For comparison of dimensions old remote control put it on the new packaging. There are no significant differences visible.

We took the controller and remote control out of the package. The battery was removed from the old remote control and installed in the new one, and the purchased one was kept as a reserve.
In order not to disturb the factory installation of internal switching in the chandelier, 4 outgoing wires were unsoldered from the terminals of the old controller and the ends of new ones were soldered to them. They coincided not only in the purpose of the channels, but even in color. We checked it very carefully before soldering.
The solder joints were insulated, and the new controller was installed in the body of the old one and closed with a lid. They decided to check the functionality of the circuit at the installation site.
We brought the chandelier to the mounting plate, connected the power and protective wires, and secured the structure to the ceiling.
When the switch was turned on and manipulated, the chandelier started working.

The same effects are obtained from the radio-controlled remote control.

In this way, we were able to repair the LED chandelier with our own hands in a relatively short time by simply replacing the controller.

Advantages and disadvantages of chandeliers with remote control

A chandelier has long been a name for a lamp that is installed under the ceiling. They are the most different types and designs. You can find a chandelier that has one light bulb, and in the next room it is hung with several light bulbs. You can turn on all the light bulbs at once, and if the switch is double, then the light bulbs are connected one by one. Today, chandeliers with remote control have appeared on the construction market; they can be turned on and off using a remote control.

How chandeliers with remote controls work

You may wonder what the remote control is for when you can turn it on and off using installed switch. Then the next question arises about the need for the switch itself if there is a remote control.

Typically, such chandeliers have not one, but several light groups, LED lightening to create lighting effects and halogen bulbs for lighting, all of which can be controlled remotely.

The control circuit operates using a radio channel, this allows you to control devices outside the line of sight, the coverage range is from 10 to 100 meters.

The remote controls always work in conjunction with receivers tuned to the same frequency and are sold in one set. The receiver controls the controller that controls the creation of lighting and color effects. There are buttons on the remote control to control the effects.

The controller can also be controlled using a switch. It is programmed and configured in such a way that every time the switch is turned on, a new light mode will be activated. The chandelier housings also contain power supplies for LEDs and halogen lamps.

How to assemble a chandelier correctly

After opening the packaging box, check the completeness of the delivery. Must be:

• LED lights.
• halogen lamps
• power unit.
• Remote Control.

It would seem that there is nothing difficult about assembling and connecting it to the electrical network. In fact, it is, but a lot of time is spent unpacking and preparing for assembly of all its components. When everything is unpacked and prepared for installation, you can safely begin work.

A controller and power supply are installed in the chandelier body, which will be fixed to the ceiling. They must be limited in freedom of movement, that is, they must be carefully secured in the case using double-sided tape.

How to connect a chandelier with a remote control

To perform connection work you must have:

• multimeter
• sampler
• insulating tape
• knife, wire cutters, pliers with insulated handles

The connection diagram is quite simple. A new chandelier is usually installed to replace an old lamp. An LED chandelier with remote control can be connected if three wires come out at the connection point. If there is a switch installed in the wall that has two keys, then there will definitely be three wires. In apartments built according to new projects, four wires can be installed, one of which will be grounding.

It needs to be determined, and the easiest way to do this is with a multimeter. Be sure to turn off the machine in the apartment panel. One probe of the device is connected to grounding, which can be a metal heating radiator or a metal box on the apartment panel in the entrance. The second probe is brought one by one to the cleaned wires on the ceiling. The wire that shows resistance will be grounding.

Next, using a probe or indicator, determine “zero” and “phases” on the wires and mark them, since further work will be carried out with the power supply turned off and even a probe will not be able to determine them.

If there is a hook from an old chandelier on the ceiling, remove it; it will not be needed. LED kits always include brackets for mounting to the ceiling, so these should be installed. Pay special attention to this so that one day it does not fall from the ceiling.

To control operating modes LED lamps, they can be equipped with remote ones, and some models also come with stationary control panels. Their connection diagrams are somewhat different. The stationary remote control is installed in place of the switch in the wall. With its help, in addition to lighting control, you can search for a lost control panel.

When installing a stationary control panel, we again remind you of the need to turn off the power supply, remove the switch and disconnect the wires from it. The next step is to connect the common wire to any phase wire on the ceiling. When the power is turned on, there will be supply voltage on the connected wires. These wires are connected to the input terminals on the remote control. The third conductor must be connected to the output terminal.

The execution of commands coming from the remote control is carried out by the controller, which must be connected to the chandelier. The order of its connection and diagram are available on the back of the controller box. The controller is usually mounted in the chandelier body under the ceiling. Terminals marked N and L connect wires that were doubled under the ceiling. The third conductor is waiting to be connected to the “output” terminal. If there is a fourth, grounding wire, it is connected to the yellow wire of the lamp.

Before turning on for the first time, carefully check all connections and connections again, and only then insert power into remote and do a test run.

Shapovalova Margarita Vasilievna

http://propotolok.guru